Check out my Squidoo Lens

A few weeks ago I was e-chatting with plein air painter Jan Blencowe and she mentioned that she was becoming addicted to Squidoo lenses. Addicted to huh? Never heard of it. Then after that conversation I seemed to hear about these lenses every other day. Must be a sign!  What is a lens? According to Squidoo,

"A lens is one person's view on a topic that matters to her. It's an easy-to-build, single web page that can point to blogs, favorite links, RSS feeds, Flickr photos, Google maps, eBay auctions, CafePress designs, Amazon books or music, and thousands of products from hundreds of other trusted merchants. You can pick whatever content you want to put in your lens to bring context to your topic. Then, when someone is looking for recommended information, fast, your lens gets him started and sends him off in the right direction. It's a place to start, not finish."

So I decided to investigate further and play. My first Squidoo lens about landscape painting is now online.  I am still thinking about more things I can include in the lens, but it is essentially up and running. Check out my Squidoo Lense here! 

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Varnishing

There has been much debate over whether artists should varnish their oil painitngs, and I think the word is still out, depending on who you ask.  A varnish is a resin applied to the surface layer of an oil painting. It adds sheen and can protect the painting from dust and pollutants. The varnish can be removed by conservators for cleaning without removing the paint layers underneath. But varnish also has yellowing properties and can turn quite dark over time. It can also crack the paint beneath it if it is applied when the painting isn't completely dry through and through. I have also seen paintings ruined by varnish that was applied too thickly or unevenly, so you have to be careful with it. 

In earlier times, varnish could protect from the dirt particles put out by burning coal, etc. But the Impressionists did not varnish their paintings because they wanted to avoid the yellowing properties perhaps, but mainly because they preferred a matte look to their paintings (if you go into a museum today you may see varnish on the surfaces of many of these paintings, but likely they were not put there by the painters themselves. Interestingly, Monet in particular preferred a very matte look and white, plain frames for his paintings; not the heavy ornate gold ones you see in the museums.)

Today varnish seems to be purely a optional decision, and mainly an aesthetic one. The Gamblin website has some good info on the topic of varnishing here. If an artist likes the look of a varnish, she can apply one, but only after the painting is completely dry. Oil paintings that have any thickness at all generally take about 6 months to dry through and through. If not, serious cracking can occur because the top layer of varnish will dry faster than the layers beneath.

In all honesty many of my paintings don't hang around in my studio for 6 months. What I usually do is to apply a retouch varnish once my paintings are dry to the touch on the surface. A retouch varnish is so lightweight that it becomes part of the top paint layer, so you don't risk the cracking that a heavier varnish can do. A retouch varnish can also even out the surface of the painting, bringing out darker areas that may have "sunken" to a more lustruous appearance. The effect is to provide a lusterous protective sheen to the painting, which I prefer to a super shiny surface.

Tags: art painting landscape painting artist

Toning a canvas

I've mentioned in previous posts that I sometimes work with toned canvas. I especially like a toned canvas when painting en plein air, as the bright light of the sun can make a bright white canvas hard on the eyes. I've worked with both a neutral gray toned panel and a tan toned panel. Since I am more attracted to warm colors, the golden tan tone appeals to me a little more. From what I've read the Impressionist Claude Monet also liked working with what he called a "blonde" canvas.  It gives a nice under layer to both skies and ground alike.

I like to tone my canvas in advance so that the toning doesn't muddy up my paint layers when I start painting. To do this I will use a raw sienna oil paint and apply it very thinly to the canvas by "scrubbing" it in with an old brush. With this method, a little goes a long way, because I want to keep the raw sienna transparent. I don't apply it in an opaque layer as that would make the canvas too dark and the canvas would likely not dry to the touch overnight. 

Alternately if I am too impatient to do the scrub in method, I will do a wash of raw sienna thinned with solvent.  You can really play around with the wash and add a dab of white to the mix if you find the raw sienna to be too dark. It is really personal preference. The point is to keep it thin so that it can dry overnight and be ready for painting the next day.

I've also painted on canvas toned on the spot when I haven't had the foresight to tone them the night before. But again, it can muddy your colors unless you apply the paint strokes a little more thickly and leave them be once you've laid them down.

Plein air tip: If you've done any plein air painting you will probably have noticed that you have to clean your palette more often so that you have space to mix your paint. As a result, you can have scrapings that turn to mud due to all of your color mixtures combined with white. Before you wipe off that ugly mud, think twice! Save your mud in a mud pile on the side of your palette and you can use it to tone your canvases later. 

Tags: art painting landscape painting artist plein air 

Landscape Values- Part III

Here are some things to consider when working with values in a landscape. Sometimes when observing the play of light it can be hard to decipher subtle value differences. These are  not hard and fast rules, but hints that may be helpful in creating the illusion of light and shadow. First, I'll start with a simple illustration:

1. The sky is the source of light, so it is usually the lightest area of the painting.
2. The flat plane of the ground is usually the 2^nd lightest value in the landscape, because it is the earth element most exposed to the light source (except when in cast shadows.)
3. Slanting planes (like the slopes of mountains) are typically the 3^rd lightest value. They still get a lot of light, but they are more upright than the flat earth planes.  Mountain values can have undulating cast shadows as well. They are still fairly light in value however. They are also cool in color temperature, due to normally viewing them from greater distances.
4. Cast shadows on a flat earth plane will be the 4^th lightest value. Shadows generally appear cooler and lower in value than lighted areas, but be wary of painting shadows too darkly (a common problem when painting from photographs.) Cast shadows in nature will still have light and color in them because in most cases they are reflecting the light from the sky.  Also note: Overcast days when the light is generally cooler and more diffused tend to have shadows that appear warmer and more diffused. Sunny days when the light is warmer tend to have shadows that appear cooler.
5. Upright structures, such as tree trunks and certain trees like cypresses will generally show some of the darkest values because there is less surface area for the light to hit. Be aware though that most trees will still have some slanting planes in the foliage on the side where the sun shines. There may also be darker values than the upright ones occurring on the undersides of your trees and bushes. 
6. Values can get tricky once you start working with color, so it can sometimes help to squint your eyes in order to check your values. Making quick thumbnail value drawings is extremely helpful as well, as a preliminary to your painting. These “hints� are especially helpful when working from photographs. Note that there are always exceptions (like rising and setting suns), so use your observing eye! Nature often has her own ideas. When working from Nature, be open to exceptions, but also be prepared to use your “hints� if you find it helps you to make a more convincing painting!  

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Landscape Values- Part II

If I want to take it a step further than the small sketch, I can lay out a value sketch on my canvas, using a mix of alizarin crimson/ultramarine blue thinned with paint thinner. This is done very thinly. I use a rag to rub off most of the paint and just give me my drawing with the values as a stain to the canvas. Alternately you could use burnt sienna for the value sketch, but I don't typically use a lot of earth tones on my palette.  Here's the canvas value sketch I've done as the first stage of my painting:

I won't always do this detailed a drawing to begin, but since this scene is more complicated than my straight landscapes I thought it might be a good idea. When painting en plein air, it is a good idea to sketch out your composition and suggest some values perhaps, but the light changes so quickly that I wouldn't do this much detail at the beginning stage unless I could return to the same spot at the same time of day on subsequent days.

Tags: art painting landscape painting artist plein air Italy travel